For the Love of Onions

Posted by on November 20, 2011 Leave a Comment

Not Only Is This Allium Delicious and Abundant, It Also Offers Some Important Health Benefits
By: Karen Keb

IN MY KITCHEN onions play a role— sometimes minor, sometimes as the star of the show—in just about every supper cooked year round. To have a larder stocked with onions is a cook’s dream, for one can always concoct a great-tasting dish if onions are on hand. If you’re out, unfortunately there is no substitute—except anything else in the allium family (leeks, shallots, or garlic). Onions are my go-to pizza topping, a key sauteeing ingredient, and a base for homemade soup. The versatility of an onion is unbeatable.

Either loved or loathed, an onion’s pungency is exactly what has made them so popular throughout history. Considered a “poor man’s spice,” the inexpensive onion has been used lavishly by peasants to liven up their dishes. Onions were a key ingredient in the cuisines of many European countries during the Middle Ages, and it was Christopher Columbus who brought onions to the West Indies; their cultivation spread from there throughout the Western Hemisphere.

HEALTH BENEFITS
The sulfur-containing compounds in onions are responsible for all those tears; however, they’re also responsible for health-promoting effects. Onions are a major source of polyphenols (antioxidants that remove free radicals from the body), and also of flavonoids (an important subdivision of polyphenols). Onions are also a good source of vitamin C, chromium, and heart-healthy dietary fiber and vitamin B6. Studies have shown onions can lower risks for heart disease and cancer, and can increase bone density when consumed daily.

GROWING & KEEPING ONIONS
Onions (Allium cepa) are a somewhat confusing lot for gardeners. There are so many different kinds: There are the pungent, bulbous storage onions; the tiny, round, pearl or “pickling” onions; the large, sweet Spanish or Bermuda onions; and bunching onions, grown for green onions or scallions.

There are also a number of ways to grow onions: from seed, from seedlings, or from sets. Growing from seed requires a long growing season and may not be possible in northern gardens unless the seeds are started indoors very early and transplanted as seedlings. Purchasing seedlings or onions sets (immature bulbs that have been harvested and dried) from a nursery is also an option, but you won’t find any interesting varieties when you go that route. Seeds produce the best-quality onions.
All onions are somewhat easy to grow. They don’t require much space; they aren’t plagued by many diseases or pests; and they require cool weather to grow the tops and warm weather to ripen the bulbs. However, they do like a sandy, fertile loam soil, well watered with good drainage—this may prove to be a gardener’s biggest challenge. Don’t skimp when it comes to soil preparation before planting onions.

Once the tops have fallen over, it’s time to harvest your onions. Pull them up—don’t cut off the tops—and let them dry right there on the ground, if warm weather and no threat of rain is in the forecast. If the weather isn’t favorable, bring them inside and set somewhere with good air circulation. I like to fan them out on a wire screen and allow them to cure in my mudroom. Once the neck of the onion is no longer green and the tops have shriveled, snip off the tops about 1 inch above the bulb.

Onions should be stored in a well-ventilated space at room temperature, away from heat and bright light—perhaps a dark pantry closet. For longest storage life, put them in a wire hanging basket, or colander with a raised base so that air can circulate underneath.

VARIETIES

• Wethersfield Large Red: This onion is the celebrated icon and logo of Wethersfield, Conn., home of Comstock, Ferre & Co. (Comstock Seeds), and traces its development back to the 1700s (see an old catalog shot of the Wethersfield onion on page 54). It grows to deep red, fine-grained, and pleasantly flavored—of renowned quality.

• Australian Brown: When first offered in 1897 by Burpee, it was said to be “Crisp, solid, and of sweet, mild flavor. Bulbs have been kept in fine condition for a year after they were harvested.” Originated in Australia, it’s a yellowish brown onion that easily reaches 1 pound.

• Southport White Globe: With pure white skin and mild flavor, this large globe-shaped bulb was said to be “the best white onion for market” by seedsman Thomas Griswold. Another Connecticut heirloom, the Southport White Globe was originally grown along the state’s Mill River, where they were exported by the millions; this agricultural epicenter was known as the “Onion Capital.”

• Ailsa Craig: This large yellow Spanish-type onion was named after the most conspicuous landmark in the channel between Ireland and Scotland—the Scottish island of Ailsa Craig, a small, round land mass that resembles a curling stone. Ailsa Craig was introduced to the United States in 1887 by David Murray, the gardener for the Marquess of Ailsa. Nearly a perfectly round onion, it grows very large—3 pounds or more, with 2 pounds being average— and its sweet flesh is mild and tasty.

RECIPES

Caramelized Onion Tart
This is a classic quiche, but the sweetness of the brown-sugar caramelized onions renders it dessert-like. Paired with the nutty, full-flavored Gruyere, it makes for a truly satisfying flavor experience. Serve this as an appetizer, cut into small squares or wedges, or full slices with a salad and bread as a meal. Serves 6.

11/3 cups all-purpose unbleached flour
6 T. butter, cold and cubed
1 egg yolk
4 to 6 T. ice water
1 T. butter
1 T. olive oil
1¼ pounds heirloom onions, sliced thinly
2 tsp. brown sugar
Pinch of freshly ground nutmeg
2 eggs
2/3 cup cream or half & half
Salt and pepper
½ cup grated Gruyere cheese

In the bowl of a food processor, combine the flour and butter. Pulse to combine, about 10 seconds. Add the egg yolk and 2 tablespoons of ice water and process. One tablespoon at a time, add more water through the feeding tube until the dough
roughly sticks together. Dump it out onto a sheet of plastic wrap and press together to form a ball. Flatten to a disk and wrap up. Place the dough in the refrigerator for one hour.

Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat the butter and olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the onions and cook slowly, stirring constantly, until they begin to soften. Add the brown sugar and nutmeg, and continue to cook for 35 to 45 minutes, until the
onions are brown and caramelized. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.

Preheat the oven to 425°F. On a floured work surface, roll out the dough to fit a 10- inch tart pan or regular (not deep-dish) pie pan. Flip the dough over every so often as you roll out to prevent it from sticking. Press it into the tart pan. Place the tart shell on a baking sheet; cover with parchment paper and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake for 15 minutes; remove parchment and beans; bake another 10 minutes; remove from oven to cool slightly. Lower the oven temperature to 400°F.

Beat the eggs with the cream. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in the grated cheese. Place the baked tart shell on a baking tray and spoon in the caramelized onions. Pour in the egg mixture. Protect the crust edges with an aluminum pie ring, or aluminum foil.

Bake for 35 minutes until puffed and golden brown. Cool slightly before serving.

Heirloom Onion & Garlic Spread
This spread can be made ahead of time and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for several days. Makes 2 cups
3 large garlic bulbs
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
4 heirloom red onions, chopped
2 T. red wine vinegar
1 T. prepared horseradish
2 T. fresh thyme leaves or 1 T. dried thyme
¼ teaspoon sea salt
freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Peel off the outer skin of each garlic bulb and slice off the top third of each. Place the bulbs, cut side up, on a square of aluminum foil. Drizzle with ¼ cup olive oil, and seal the foil loosely. Place the garlic package on a baking tray and roast for 35 to 45 minutes.

In a large skillet over medium-low heat, heat the remaining ¼ cup olive oil and saute the chopped onions until softened, about 7 to 10 minutes. Add the vinegar and horseradish and cook for another 2 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.

Remove the garlic from the oven and open the foil. Allow to cool for 10 minutes.

Reserving the oil from the packet, squeeze out each garlic clove into the bowl of a food processor. Add the onions with cooking liquid, thyme, salt, and pepper to taste. Process until smooth, adding a bit of reserved garlic oil through the feeding tube.

HG Editor Karen Keb operates Prairie Turnip Farm in Osage County, Kansas, with her husband, Oscar H. Will III. Email her at karen (at) heirloomgardener.com

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Winter: Editor’s Letter

Posted by on November 20, 2011 Leave a Comment

Emilee and Sasha harvesting onions.

Dear friends,

It’s hard to believe the holidays are already upon us. Throughout the year as we travel I enjoy scouting out all the local shops in hopes of finding a few unique, handmade gifts for those I love.

We’ve been from sea to shining sea twice this year, covering thousands of miles in between with farmer’s markets and farms as our rest stops. We have met some amazing people who have an inspiring passion for growing their own food and sharing the harvest with hundreds of customers. Their enthusiasm is quite contagious as can be seen with all the new initiatives and farmer’s markets sprouting up from San Francisco to New York City and every small town in between. It’s an exciting time to be a gardener or small farmer! A new season of growing is knocking on our door. What will you do to be a part of it?

As a kid I remember one of my favorite things about winter was the never-ending supply of seed catalogs that flooded our mailbox on the heels of Christmas. They were the perfect prescription for cabin fever as the winter winds blew five-foot drifts around our home. I would often daydream of sunny days and the earthy smell of freshly tilled soil, combined with a sea of flowers, all the while my mouth watered for just one taste of a melon ripened by summer’s heat. Then, just to find myself rudely awakened by a nice chunk of snow in my boot as I shoveled my way out of the house. After we made our big purchases from Henry Fields, Gurneys, Johnny’s, et cetera, we started our seedlings in February and babied them through the end of winter. Since then, I married a seedsman and I don’t have too far to go any time of the year to be surrounded by seeds, seedlings, and myriad beautiful plants.

Working in a seed company we are frequently asked questions like: How do I start my seeds? Do I have to harden them off? How do I save specific seed varieties? And the classic “How many plants come from one seed?” At times it was rather frustrating that there wasn’t a go-to guide to thoroughly answer all the questions surrounding heirloom growing. As a response to those questions and more, we’ve authored a book, The Heirloom Life Gardener, which not only tells our story but profiles 50 types of heirloom vegetables and everything from how to start them, keep pests a bay, cook the produce, and save the seed. Our new hardcover book features full-color, mouthwatering images that might incite a few daydreams as you read it by your fireplace. Check out our website at rareseeds.com or visit your local bookstore to pick up your own copy or one for a friend.

We hope you enjoy this issue of the magazine! From Seed Starting 101 to Geese, we’ve got your garden and farm covered.

See you in the Spring,
God Bless!
Emilee Gettle

Emilee Gettle: Wife of Jere and mother to Sasha, Emilee lives a full life of gardening, crafting and homesteading. She has the distinct pleasure of associating with some of America’s most interesting people–heirloom and organic farmers. Read her blog: heirloomgirl.com
Winter 2011-2012 Heirloom Gardener Magazine 

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Kale

Posted by on August 8, 2011 Leave a Comment

Grow it just once, and a season without kale will seem almost unimaginable. The dark, leafy greens are full of nutrients; they’re easy to grow, colorful, full of texture and they make a great addition to permaculture. If you aren’t a fan of greens, kale may make you one in the process of eating it in unexpected ways. Kale is loaded with vitamins and minerals vital to good health. Kale contains high levels of beta carotene, vitamin K, vitamin C and lutein. It even has omega 3 fatty acids, and vitamins B6, B3, B2, and B1. One cup of cooked kale has over 5 percent of the recommended daily allowance of protein. Not only is it tasty and beautiful, it is important to grow yourself so you can plant the old varieties and harvest the best quality. When you pick your greens and prepare these recipes, you not only add to your health, you also put a piece of history back into action— where it needs to be.

There are two main types of kale: European and Russo-Siberian. Although there are a couple dozen choices of kale varieties within these two groups, I’ll highlight a few selected heirloom favorites. No matter what kale you already grow, consider adding at least one of these heirlooms to this year’s garden.

European Kale
(Brassica oleracea, Acephala group)
‘Lacinato’ kale, also known as ‘Tuscan,’ ‘Black Kale,’ ‘Nero di Toscana,’ ‘Black Palm,’ ‘Tuscan Black Cabbage’ and more frequently, ‘Dinosaur.’ ‘Lacinato’ was described by Vilmorin-Andrieux in 1885 and traced back to the 18th century by William Woys Weaver. The bumpy, puckered leaf surface of the mature leaves might be reminiscent to some of what one imagines dinosaur skin to be like. This Italian heirloom
is the oldest known Mediterranean kale. At maturity its blue-green, strap-like leaves are 2–3” wide by 10–16” long. ‘Lacinato’ kale makes a convenient “napini” (or “broccolini,” young sprouts similar to
broccoli raab) in the spring after overwintering. Baby leaves are ready in about 30 days; 60 days for mature leaves.

‘Vates,’ also recognized by other names such as ‘Vates Dwarf,’ ‘Blue Curled Scotch,’ and ‘Dwarf Scotch.’ This one is actually American, bred by the Virginia Agricultural Experimental Station and released around 1950. ‘Blue Curled Scotch’ is very cold hardy. I remember from my childhood seeing this variety overwinter in the Midwest. It would be buried by snow but still beautiful and edible. The blue-green, finely cut and curled leaves can grow 1–2 feet tall and spread out to 2 feet; mature in 55–60 days.

Russo-Siberian
(Brassica napus, Pabularia group)
‘Red Russian’ kale, also commonly called ‘Ragged Jack’ and ‘Russian Red.’ This is a pre-1885 heirloom, yet in Maine by 2006 farm workers were calling it ‘Communist Kale’; In 1885 Vilmorin- Andrieux was known to have called it ‘Ragged Jack’. This Siberian kale was brought to Canada in the 19th century by Russian traders and has often been called ‘Russian Red’ since then. This tender kale treasure is rarely found in grocery stores due to its short holding capacity. Its great taste and colored texture make it worth growing in the home garden. The frilly, oak-type leaves have purplish- red stems and venous green leaves that gain red to purple edges with fall’s frosts. ‘Red Russian’ can reach 2–3 feet tall if grown to maturity for bunching or braising. Baby leaves are available in about 25 days and mature leaves in 55–60 days.

Cultivation
These brassica are actually in the same family as broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage, so if you have prepared a grow bed for any of these, you already know how to grow kale. However, kale is much easier and quicker to go from seed to the table.

Kale is a cool weather crop; when it gets to much heat and unreliable amounts of water, it starts to turn bitter. Where the summers are cool, plant in the spring or early summer; if your summers are hot, plant so leaves mature in the cool parts of fall. You can use transplants, but it grows best when direct-seeded, starting 2–4 weeks before the last frosts of spring and about 4 weeks prior to expected first fall frost. Plant ¼- to ½-inch deep and thin to one plant every 12–18 inches to give room for plants to spread.

All kale is considered cold tolerant, but the amount of hardiness depends upon the growth style. The more upright the plant, the less hardy, so those that grow more compactly to the soil are ideal for overwintering in really cold zones. Kale can tolerate temperatures down to 5 degrees F if the plants have been acclimated to the temperatures. In fact, a few hard frosts enhance kale flavor.

Kale contends with the same types of pests as any other member of the Brassica family. Cutworms, cabbage loopers, aphids, and flea beetles are the most common. If you know you’ll be challenged with these pests, try planting when they are less likely to cause damage (fall), or use a lightweight insect barrier (floating row cover) for control. A strong blast from the hose twice a week also helps evict those pests.

Harvest
You can harvest the leaves in several ways. When the plant is young, harvest the older leaves first and remove any yellowing leaves while you’re at it. The second way is to harvest the tender center leaves of the mature plant, and wait to use the older leaves when the cooler weather has sweetened them. The leaves really can be harvested any way, but you will want to keep the stems in a little water to keep them
from wilting. Eat the leaves soon after harvesting to get the best, sweetest flavor, and the most nutrients.

Cooking with Kale
Harvesting your kale when young and tender is a great way to add color and texture to your mesclun salad. You can also harvest them when young for drying, or if they are mature, simply remove the stems and cut into 1/2 to 1-inch pieces and dry. This makes an easy addition to soups or mashed potatoes when in a hurry. Just keep in an airtight container out of the light until use. Because we often are busy, or weather keeps us out of the garden, we are not always able to select when the leaves are small and very tender. These recipes were created with mature kale leaves in mind.

Tropical Kale Salad
Serves 4
4 cups (compact) kale, shredded
1/2 cup unsweetened coconut flakes
1/4 cup sliced almonds
Dressing:
1/4 cup fresh squeezed tangelo juice
2 T honey
Optional: Splash of lime juice

Garnish:
6-8 figs cut into quarter pieces
Drizzle honey
Tangelo pieces
1. Wash and remove heavy stems from kale. Dry the leaves. Cut or tear kale leaves into ¼- to ½-inch pieces.
2. Prepare dressing by pouring tangelo juice into a small mixing bowl or wide-mouth pint jar. Add honey into juice and mix thoroughly. Add splash of lime if desired.
3. Pour dressing over kale and toss to thoroughly cover kale leaves.
4. Divide kale onto 4 individual serving plates. Divide and sprinkle amongst plates the coconut flakes and sliced almonds.
5. Optional garnish: Cut pieces of tangelo and scatter upon kale for color. For additional color and delightful flavor, arrange pieces of fig drizzled with honey around the plate

Jodi Ferguson grew up in Southwest Michigan and continues to pursue organic gardening, small-scaleranching, writing, music, travel and other interests with her husband of 20 years, Kam. Currently living on a few acres of East Tennessee foothills, she longs for cool northern air with less humidity and fewer bugs, and ultimately looks forward to eating from the tree of life in the Earth made new.

Published in the Winter 2011 issue.

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A Winter Pantry Staple: Carrots

Posted by on August 8, 2011 Leave a Comment

During these cold and somewhat bleak days of fall and winter, I bet you’re quite glad you grew carrots this year. Happily stored in damp sand or sawdust in your basement or root cellar, they’re a go-to kitchen ingredient during the season when few fresh vegetables can be had. Homegrown carrots have special zing—a flavor some describe as “herbaceous,” others as “earthy”—that you don’t find in supermarket varieties. More than an obligatory vegetable to grow for storage, carrots are downright versatile, adding savory bulk to comfort soups and stews, and sweet fiber to cakes and breads. I have come to adore carrots as a pantry staple, right there alongside my potatoes, onions and apples.

Growing Carrots
Carrots thrive in rich, loose soil, with full sun; they can tolerate light shade. Raised beds are ideal for growing carrots. Carrots can be planted in early spring through mid-summer; seed every 2 or 3 weeks for continuous harvest. Cover seeds with fine soil and when their tops come up, thin to one plant every 3 inches. Once the tops are a few inches high, mulch the soil to keep the roots cool and keep it weeded so they aren’t competing for water. Harvest carrots when they are no more than 1 inch in diameter—that is when they are most tender and flavorful.

Heirlooms
Long before orange carrots, there were violet carrots, white carrots, and yellow carrots from Europe to Afghanistan. The orange varieties, so familiar to us today, came about in Holland in the 1600s when they first appeared in Dutch paintings of the period. The Early Horn carrot and the long scarlet type were both sent to America by Dutch Mennonites and were first cultivated in Pennsylvania. From these two Dutch orange carrots, most of the other carrots evolved.

  • ‘Chantenay Red Cored’: Descended from Chantenays and brought to America from Europe in the late 1800s. Its flavor improves with storage, becoming sweeter, so it’s a great fall crop to go into the root cellar. According to Roger Yepsen in A Celebration of Heirloom Vegetables (Artisan, 1998), “fresh out of the garden, they taste herby and slightly wild, and may have a hint of soapy flavor characteristic of certain heirloom carrots.” In a Seeds of Change taste test of 15 carrot varieties, Chantenay Red Cored rated the highest. A great market variety, they’re excellent for the table, and for canning, juicing, freezing, or storing.
  • ‘Parisienne’ or ‘Parisian Rondo’: This is a reintroduction of the old Golden Ball or Early Frame—a small, round carrot that grows quickly and was “used historically as a garnish for roasts and fanciful food preparations,” according to William Woys Weaver in Heirloom Vegetable Gardening (Henry Holt and Company, 1997). These little, round, sweet carrots (1-2 inches in diameter) grow well in heavy soil or in greenhouses—they were bred in the 19th century for cold-frame culture. Crisp and delicate, Parisienne is delicious served raw in salads or lightly steamed.
  • ‘True Danvers’ or ‘Danvers Half Long’: Originated with market gardeners near Danvers, Mass., in the 1870s as a crop to interplant with onions. “Since carrots and onions are compatible in the field, the Connecticut onion farmers used True Danvers to increase the productivity of their land,” according to Woys Weaver. This dependable, true American variety is adapted to many different soil types, is deep orange in color, and 6-8 inches long. Danvers is another great storage carrot.

Cooking Carrots
Staying true to their versatile nature, carrots are delicious eaten raw or can be cooked by just about any method. As a root vegetable, carrots are best when roasted, but when baked in cakes and breads, they become sweet and dessert-like. Most people prefer to peel carrots before cooking, but if you’ve grown them yourself and they’re fairly young, just give them a good scrubbing first.

Roast: 20-30 minutes at 425°F
Steam: 5-7 minutes
Saute: 5-8 minutes
Grill: 10 minutes

Have an abundance of carrots? Try out these two recipes on your family!

Maple-roasted Heirloom Vegetables
Serves 8
1 lb. heirloom carrots, sliced into 1/4” rounds
½ lb. heirloom fingerling potatoes, halved lengthwise
½ lb. onions, peeled and cut into 1” chunks
2 T melted butter
3 T maple syrup
salt and pepper
½ cup chopped parsley
1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.
2. Parboil the carrots and potatoes for 5 minutes; drain and pat dry. Combine with onions in a large roasting pan.
3. Melt the butter and combine with maple syrup. Pour over vegetables and toss well. Salt and pepper to taste.
4. Roast for 40-45 minutes, mixing once half way through cook time, until lightly browned and easily pierced with a fork.
5. Sprinkle parsley on top just before serving.

Double Chocolate Carrot Bread
Makes 2 loaves
4 cups flour
1/2 cup cocoa
1 1/2 cups sugar
1 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. baking powder
3/4 tsp. salt
1 tsp. cinnamon
1/2 tsp. nutmeg
2 cups grated carrots
1 1/2 cups vegetable oil
3 eggs
1 1/2 cups milk
2 tsp. vanilla
1 cup semi-sweet chocolate chips
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Butter two (8” x 4”) loaf pans.
2. In a large bowl, combine flour, cocoa, sugar, baking soda, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, and nutmeg. In a separate bowl, combine carrots, oil, eggs, milk, and vanilla.
3. Stir carrot mixture into the flour mixture, just until blended. Mix in the chocolate chips. Pour batter into prepared pans.
4. Bake until a toothpick inserted into the center of the bread comes out clean, about 1 hour 15 minutes.
5. Cool on a rack for 10 minutes, then remove from pans and cool completely.

HG editor Karen Keb cooks, writes, and gardens from Prairie Turnip Farm in Osage County, Kansas. E-mail her at karen@heirloomgardener.com

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